Cate Adams, Costume Designer
Edited by Leonard Zelig
Behind the Scenes photos by Miles Crist
March 5, 2024
Illustrations by Richard Merritt
(Click to view in full resolution)
During my first talks with David Fincher to discuss the script, one of the first notes he gave me was that maybe “The Expert” should be in an Ann Taylor suit. Ann Taylor is a small US chain of clothing stores for fashion-forward career women. Put together, but not flashy. Very understated despite her wealth. That was my first impression.
When we got closer to shooting the scenes with Tilda Swinton in Chicago, there was correspondence between her and David about shaping the character, what she would wear, what her house looks like, that he shared with me and Gigi Williams, Head of Makeup.
She lives in a beautiful, mid-century modern home, and she has money from her occupation, but she is very under the radar. She indulges herself with smaller luxuries like fine-dining restaurants, where she keeps her own bottle of whisky, and Swiss ultra-luxury vintage watches like an Audemars Piguet. A masseuse could be seen leaving her home with a table.
David suggested a simple but beautiful dress with a flow, with a sway. It had to be warm because it was going to be really cold since we were shooting at night in Chicago in February. So, maybe wool. And nice shoes, but not so tall as to risk hurting anyone when she topples. He wanted something that was in a lighter tone, similar to “The Killer” in Paris. It’s funny how there are these hidden Easter eggs, everything connected. And all the light tones couldn’t have a touch of pink in them. If you look at some khakis on the color wheel they will lead to pink. And he doesn’t like pink. I also had to avoid greens. And patterns. So, it had to be muted tones like off-white, ecru, eggshell, cement… She shouldn’t be menacing when you first see her. You want a bit of compassion or empathy for her.
I knew I wasn’t going to have a lot of time with Tilda. So, we just started doing a lot of research. After scouring the internet for dresses and looking for reference photos of her films and press appearances, we started to think that we should make our own dress.
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