Cate Adams, Costume Designer
Edited by Leonard Zelig
March 5, 2024
Illustrations by Richard Merritt
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“The Dominatrix” is played by the gorgeous and fearless Monique Ganderton, a top Hollywood Stunt Performer, Stunt Coordinator, Actress, and Director.
We started to research for the looks of The Dominatrix in Los Angeles, around July/August of 2021. From the script and David’s notes, I knew we wanted her to be elegant with a hint of sexy the first time we see her, but not revealing as we didn’t want to give away what was to come. The inspiration for this look came from images of the classic vintage style of vedettes and fashion icons from France, such as Carine Roitfeld, formerly of Vogue Paris, Victoria Beckham, and vedette, burlesque dancer, and model Dita Von Teese in public:
At the beginning of the production in Paris, we had to fit/shoot The Dominatrix body double in the look, when she gets out of the car and enters the apartment building.
I found a beautiful Ferragamo light blue trench with a built-in neck scarf that we used as inspiration for a custom-made Trench. David gave the OK to go for the Trench look after showing him the inspirational images. So, Véronique, our cutter fitter in Paris, patterned a look close to the Ferragamo in black. We sourced the black satin fabric and notions in Paris. We also made a custom head scarf with the fabric.
To cover ourselves with other options besides the Made To Order look, we pulled from Dolce & Gabbana in Paris, Printemps, Galleries Lafayette, and stores such as COS and & Other Stories from the high streets. We ended up going with a Dolce & Gabbana blouse, a COS pleated skirt, a & Other Stories belt, black sheer hosiery, Yves Saint Laurent Betty boots, and a Kooples faux crocodile leather purse.
For the look of The Dominatrix… unleashed, our main inspirations were French fashion designer Thierry Mugler, photographer Helmut Newton, particularly his stylized more erotic work with sado-masochistic and fetishistic themes, fetish photographer Steve Diet Goedde, corset maker Mr. Pearl, and Dita Von Teese and her book “Fetish and the Art of the Teese” (2006).
On one of his notes, David suggested watching The Night Porter (1974), a film directed, and co-written by Liliana Cavani, and starring Dirk Bogarde and Charlotte Rampling. One of the most controversial films of all time and very influential in fashion and popular culture with its S&M aesthetic. We had custom gloves made by LA ROXX that were a knockoff from the ones Charlotte Rampling wears:
For the custom-made corset, we took inspiration from the haute corsetry, luxe lingerie, and sensual accessories brands based in London Corsetorium, and Sian Hoffman’s The Model Traitor, particularly, their Merry Widow Corset.
To make the corset, we found Autumn at The Dark Garden Corsetry based in New Orleans and San Francisco, who has also made corsets for Dita Von Teese. We were happy to support a local vendor, as we would be filming the Dominatrix scenes in New Orleans. We started with measurements, zoom phone calls, samples sent to Monique to try on for fit, and then final fittings in New Orleans.
First fitting for Monique at Trashy Lingerie in Los Angeles (late summer of 2021):
Final fittings in New Orleans (December of 2021):
We also had to incorporate building multiple corsets that could be used for the “rachet pull stunt” for Monique which was done for when she is shot. Ratchet pulls are used to pull and launch actors and stunt performers in flying stunts. Using cables attached to harnesses, a rigged stunt consisting of a ratchet system helps give the illusion of a character flying through the air in an action scene. Stunts that typically require ratchet systems include explosions, fights, or scenes where a character is hit with a powerful gunshot. We ended up making three corsets in total. One hero and two for the stunt.
“The Killer” Costume Design Department
Costume Designer: Cate Adams
MAIN UNIT
Costume Supervisor: Catharine “Fletch” Incaprera
Assistant Costume Designer: Ken Van Duyne
PARIS
Costume Supervisor: Lenaïg Periot-Boulben
Key Set Costumer – Cast: Iris Jarre
Costume Buyers / Set Costumers: Avril Lecocq, Camille Lartigue
Standby Crowd: Aude Langlois-Meurinne
Seamstresses : Véronique Boisel, Marion Uberall
Ager / Dyer: Valentina Fici
Costume Runners: Julien Bugeaud, Robert Turel
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC
Key Costumer: Anthony Rivera Jr.
Costume Supervisor: Irene Freundt
Key Set Costumer: Abril Medina
Set Costumers: Lucylle Montero, Camila Canaan
Seamstress: Luz Esther Aybar
Head Aging: Caroll Maura
Aging Assistant #1: Zoe Blanchard
Shopper #1: Anabelle Paulino
NEW ORLEANS
Costume Coordinator: Alexa Howard
Key Office Costumer: Chelsea Descenna
Key Set Costumer: Marie Boensch
Truck Costumer: Olivia Vestina Torres
Set Costumer: Taylor Wilcox
Ager / Dyer: Gayle Merindino
Cutter / Fitter: Nancy Molleur
CHICAGO
Costume Supervisor: Jennifer Jobst
Key / Trailer Costumer: Angela Verdino
Costumer: Seth Elliott
Set Costumers: Louise Upchurch, Kirrah Perkins
BG Costumer: Kareena Gardner
Ager / Dyer: Kristi Wood
Stitchers: Sandy Lazar, Kate Shattock
LOS ANGELES
Costumer: Steve Constancio
LOS ANGELES ADDITIONAL UNIT
Costume Supervisor: Brittany Pask
Key Prep Costumer: Jeanine McKirnan
Key Set Costumer: May Azzow
Costumer: Emily Moran
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